Paris Fashion Week: Iris Van Herpen AW14 "Biopiracy"

The first time I saw images from this catwalk show, it really felt like a breath of fresh air. Previous to this, I'd never heard of Iris Van Herpen before, and now I'm completely in love. The installation of vacuum packed models divided the runway at her Paris catwalk show, it was reported that on-lookers felt uncomfortable as the fetal-positioned models writhed within the plastic and seemed to struggle to breathe.

The collection incorporated 3D printed garments; including knee-high boots wrap around the front of the leg, and expose the rear of the calf to loop behind the knee (a collaboration with Dutch footwear designer, United Nude), these can be seen in the below gif animation:


This human installations is a collaboration from Van Herpen with artist Lawrence Malstaf and has been described as both "ethereal and disturbing" by Dazed Digital. As the show commenced, air was suctioned from the vaccum packs creating the illusion of the models being suspended in mid-air, weightless.


The term "Biopiracy" refers to the commercial development and monopolisation of natural biological materials such as plants or cells; the show was a political comment regarding the ownership of our own body. I feel that Van Herpen is questioning the privacy of our own body and if we display ourselves too freely through increased lack of privacy, created by social media usage and increased surveillance within society.


Catwalk images:


 

I love the natural movement of the silk garments in contrast to the heavily structured, architectural pieces within the collection, the two above images are perfect examples of this juxtaposition.


YouTube video of the catwalk show:


What are your thoughts?

Images: Dazed

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